It is hard to imagine any other part of Britain placing such diverse layers in such a small space. On Penwith Peninsula, we cycled past granite cliffs, a large beach in Whitesand Bay, empty dunes, a rolling milk farm, and narrow, winding valleys. On the Lizard Peninsula, there were streams of thick wood, rich grasslands and beautiful covers from the pages of Daphne du Maurier's book. The final phase of the route, which begins and ends at Penzance, follows the abandoned mining railways: previously used to transport iron ore in the industrial corridor of Cornwall around Redruth and Camborne to the coast, and were reintroduced as excellent stone-lane routes.
Rob Penn (independent) and Sophie Gordon (cyclist in the UK) on the sidewalks near Lamorna during a cycling ride on West Kernow Way, June 2021. The 230km route is part of an EU-sponsored EU EXPERIENCE project to promote sustainable development- activities round in Cornwall.
Author Rob Penn and Sophie Gordon of Cycling UK on national trails near Lamorna near Mousehole. Photo: Stefan Amato / Pannier / Cycling UK
Choosing the right type of bicycle for a trip that mixes tar and trails in that diverse area is not a reality. Hardtail mountain bikes (with a temporary suspension) and rock climbing or “fun games” usually go very well. As anyone cycling southwest will know, Cornwall has hills. In fact, the landscape here is specially described by short but very steep climbs, especially inside and outside protected ports like Cadgwith and Coverack on the Lizard. But this can be done with an electric bike.
The most spectacular were the pink sea thrift carpet, the fragrance of the white ocean seas and the perpetual sunset
The West Kernow Way was created by the UK cycling council and Cornwall, with EU funding. The route has not been sent to the signal, so you need a GPS device, and it is incomplete - there are categories of routes that can be used, most defeated (at least in the summer), and the length of the technical singletrack, which has the sticks I have to go. This is a minor failure, however, and yet we should be thankful for cycling in the UK: West Kernow Way is the latest addition to a growing list of long distances, especially off-road routes the organization has helped to improve, including the Great North Route and King Alfred's Way.
A sandy track to Loe Bar, where swimming is not allowed due to dangerous currents. They have taken a magnificent route at this time: several parts of the West Kernow Way are referred to as roadways, or at least "misspelled on the map as footpaths", according to Cycling UK, citing historical map evidence that they were previously used by horses and cars. These “lost routes” can be reimbursed through legal action (map modification orders or DMMOs, if you should know) but the process takes years, or decades. Best of all, cycling in the UK, is to start using these “lost routes” now. Some cyclists will ride on footpaths; others will enjoy those silent acts of sin. For everyone, however, the West Kernow Way ride is an opportunity to reflect on the consistent rights of system rights in England and Wales, where 78% of the network is restricted by bicycles.
Many well-known historical landmarks have been erected on the West Kernow Way - Land's End, Sennen Cove, Cape Cornwall, Stone-an-Tol Stones, Lizard Point, Helford River and Mount Michael Michael - but more people are likely to visit them. What excites me the most, for me, were the unexpected events of the land and the sea: a bright pink sea carpet rolling around on rocky rocks; white sponges integrated circular motions in blue-black sea; stone storehouses with a roof covered with orange wool; sod banks covered with campion tracks, foxgloves and stitchwort; trees licked by wind and constant sunsets.
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